CONTROLLERSĪnytime you use a panel that is over 5 watts rated output, we recommend using a solar charge controller. Typically, when 24 volts or greater is needed, solar panels may be wired in series, or we can special order solar panels that are made to deliver more DC Volts such as 24V, 36V, 48V etc. Most solar chargers are designed for 12 VDC, but we do have limited availability on a 24-volt panel. Conditions such as an overcast sky, shadows, improper mounting angle, equatorial direction or short winter days will reduce the actual solar panel output to below the rated values. Using this example, you can see that it will take at least 100 watts of solar power to recharge a 100-amp hour battery in a few days.Īlso, keep in mind that it takes direct sunshine on the surface of the panel to produce the maximum-rated power of a solar panel. After a full week, the battery will be just about fully charged. Assume you take a discharged 100-amp hour battery and charge it with a 30-watt solar panel under ideal summertime light conditions. For example, some people are trying to recharge batteries for a trolling motor, boat, RV, house, electric scooter, backwoods cabin, etc., and they want it done in very short time, usually in just a few days. We’ll attempt to answer the questions asked most often so we can save you a phone call.īefore we get started, you should know that solar power is not the cure-all for replacing spent energy. Thank you again for the calculator resource.Rain or shine we get a huge number of calls about solar power each day. I could enter each item separately to get amp hours then total the amp hours at the end. What is that compared to 200 AH at 20-Hr Rate? Would this be sufficient for my setup? The calculator shows I would need a 216 AH battery running all items for 6 hours. Any suggestion on getting a better feel for how many AH I need in my Deep Cycle Battery? I am looking at one that says 389 Capacity minutes. With such variables in frequency of usage how do i figure the battery needed? The calculator, which has helped me a lot, figures I am using all DC 12volt items the entire time which is not the case. My lights I will use only when it is dark and when I am awake, the pump is only when I turn the water on. 9 LED 12v lights, A 12Volt Water pump, DC plug/USB Charger/Monitor Combo, and another USB/DC Charger. I have totaled my setup that I am building in my Cargo Trailer Conversion to be 16.3 Amps. I run a small fridge led lights all around and basic charging necessities iPad etc.Īll the gear and no idea!!! Is my favourite saying…. But I would still like it set up to work as it should. The 4×4 drives around enough to keep the batteries topped up most of the time. I would like to go camping every month but the reality is 2-3 times a year for only weekends away and 1 week somewhere special. Lastly, trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, what if I was to get a manual battery isolator to split the batteries back to 105ah then just switch the alligator clips between batteries, a bit of stuffing around but wil his charge the batteries fully? Also I’m looking at 2× 80w solar panels (160w) foldable with a regulator for each can I plug these two panels together (dual Anderson plug) or will the two regulators confuse each other. I purchased a10ah smart battery charger, it was half the price and I got a bit excited, my question is will this fully charge these batteries eventually? I realise that 10% amp size for the charger is the recommendation. From what I have learnt by reading all of the post that means I have 210ah and a 12 volt battery bank. Hi Tech, I have 2× 105ah batteries in the tray of the ute, running parallel, using a red arc dual battery system which seems so far keep these batteries topped up, using HD welding cable.
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